TINY WHOOP parts list & build guide
So you have seen them everywhere mashing indoors over and under furniture or just about anywhere they will fit, and tho we have done many previous reviews of micro fpv quadcopters even some with brushless power and cleanflight config the TINY WHOOP is just bad ass! Simple mods to a Blade Inductrix delivers a micro fpv quad with tons of performance. You won’t need to register the tiny whoop, it’s totally safe with tiny enclosed props, and its perfect for beginners but obviously enough even the pro’s can get crazy.
The creation of team BigWhoop pilot Jesse Perkins, TinyWhoop has taken over the indoor micro fpv scene. While Eachine and every one else tries to clone the market… these are the dudes that started it all.
So what do I need to build this TINY WHOOP?
It starts with a Blade Inductrix, either an RTF kit or the BnF, if you have a compatible transmitter already get the BIND N FLY.
Note about compatible transmitters
- DSM2 transmitters bind directly to the Inductrix. Spektrum DX6, DX6i (orange DSM X|2 module)
- Frsky can bind to the Inductrix using a DSM module available here. Taranis, FS-TH9X
AiO Micro Camera & VTX combo
Next you need a low voltage (1s) very small vtx and camera, they call them AiO (ALL In One), where the camera, video transmitter and antenna are all in one tiny Plug-n-Play package . The AiO combos work well and are easy to use, there are many AiO cameras flooding the market now that prices are dropping with new features being added with every new version.
Take note: 25mW is the max allowed by US law, as long as you have a good antenna and correct polarization on the receiving end you should have no problems with your video signal.
You will need more batteries… more power, higher c rating, and different brands. The stock battery included isn’t really good enough once you add the camera and upgraded motors. Grab a few, as none of them are going to last more than a few minutes of flight time anyways.
- GiantPower 1s 220mAh 50c $5 Banggood
- PeakPower 1s 220mAh 50c $5 Banggood
- x5 Tattu 220mAh 45c $24 Amazon
- x4 CrazyPony 1s 220mAh 50c $17 Amazon
- MMW MyLiPo 1s 205mAh$6 Amazon
- Nitro Nectar 1s 210mAh $6 newbeedrone
- Lumenier 1s 205mAh $5 GetFPV
Charging 1s 3.7 tinywhoop lipo batteries
The stock eflight usb chargers are junk! If you are serious about squeezing every last second of flight time out of your batteries then you are going to need a decent charger. Its also possible to charge more than one battery at a time or out in the field. Below are a few of the more popular balance chargers.
Charging multiple (parallel) 1s tinywhoop batteries
TinyWhoop upgraded motors
The stock motors really aren’t good enough to fly around and begin whoop’in, you’ll need something a little better with more power. A few places now carry various versions of the upgraded motors, tinywhoop official having the most choices and confirmed speeds. Just keep in mind, more power comes at the expense of flight time.
Transmitters for the Tinywhoop
The tinywhoop uses the DSM protocol so Spektrum branded (dsm) transmitters will bind perfect. Most of the other popular transmitters with a JR bay can support dsm2 with a compatible module. Setup for each is a little different, so far the TBS Tango has been our favorite out of the box, most hassle free option.
Do I have to have a headset, these things are expensive!
Of course not, while there are some very low priced headsets out now (even fat sharks for $165) you can just use a common video receiver with your tv. Being just a 25mW video transmitter you’ll want something without the bluescreen but whatever has an rca video input will work. I little trick, is turn your wifi off or change the channels on your router to reduce interference.
How to Build the TinyWhoop
1.) Remove the top off the Inductrix, by lifting the tabs on each side. Remove the case from the AiO camera, FX|Spektrum cams you may need to cut a little, the eachine just unscrew and remove.
2.) Remove the props by just pulling them off (use some tool to pull from the under side). Push the stock motors out from the bottom carefully then slide the new motors in their place and plug all four back in. Honestly I had to slobber in the motor seats to push them back in they fit so tight~ Not push the props back on gently (don’t smash your whoop), you will feel when they are seated all the way. For my build I used the “Really Fast Racing Edition” motors from TinyWhoop.com tho I hear spintechs are the sh!t and you get 6 for the same price, note they don’t have plug end on the motors either.
3.) Identify the positive and negative wires (negative being the closest to the screw) look at the underside as these are the same tabs that the battery is connected to (white being positive). Take care not to mess with the red wire going across the entire board as that your receivers antenna.
4.)Now that you are 100% sure of your two tabs, “tin” the tips on the camera wires and just soldier them on. Quick and easy you won’t need much as Horizon seems to leave some pretty big globs of soldier there for you (…hmmm, reminds me of old xbox’s that where meant to be modded). Wait for it to cool and hold the tabs now while you twist the 2 wires (this helps cut down on interference).
5.) Mounting the camera can either be done with rubber bands & 3m double sided tape or even a 3d printed mount. Doesn’t matter just get it attached on top. Pay attention to the arrows direction on the board and point the camera upfront, the power is directly behind. I used this 10 degree camera mount from TinyWhoop.com, designed for FX TW1, I had to cut it a bit to fit the eachine camera but it’s nice and snug now~
6.) Done… if you using the ready to fly with stock transmitter or a Spektrum you are good to go, if your going to use some thing Flysky, Frsky like a Taranis you will need a DSM2 multi-protocol module.
TINY WHOOP Build Videos
Check out the below video’s before you get started. The entire process is very simple as there is really only 2 wires that you even need to mess with.
TinyWHOOP replacement parts
We all crash, run into everything and generally wreak havoc indoors so occasionally things break. No fear as pretty much everything on the tinywhoop can either be replaced or cannibalized (no one has just one).
Upgrades & MODs for the TINY WHOOP
Whynot pimp your whoop… from high power core-less motors to full carbon fiber and aluminum frame kits. If your looking to squeeze every extra second out of your whoop, try a bigger battery up to 240mAh. Stiffen up that frame with a carbon fiber insert or just add some color.
- BeeBrain v.1 – $49 Cleanflight/Betaflight compatible Flight Controller for the Tiny Whoop™
- BeeCore F3 EVO ACRO Flight Controller $30
- CNC aluminum & carbon fiber Inductrix frame upgrade kit
- Carbon Fiber Frame Stiffner
- Hydro Dipped Whoop Frames
- Color Blast Frames
- 3D Printed F3 Based frame
- Brushed 32bit F3 Flight Controller
- Micro Frsky Receiver
3d Printable parts for the TINY WHOOP
Looking to build a Tiny Whoop with a Scisky flight controller, well TomoQuads has you covered.
Show some redneck pride and strap on a set of antlers specifically designed to protect your tinywhoops delicate antenni or you can just go on the offensive and jab people with it’s pointy tips…
There ain’t nothing wrong with Whoop’in on a budget man, cheap clones that are basically the same thing, good enough to get a camera in the air. It doesn’t matter if you are just getting started or assembling a fleet, clones are the way~
- check out our full TinyWhoop Clone Guide, bookmark it.
Whoop some tiny ass all day long with these TinyWhoop Killers. These kits and mods take the “tinywhoop” style micro fpv quads to another level. Configurable flight controllers, bigger motors and 2s power have your attention yet?
- check out our full TinyWhoop Clone Guide, bookmark it.
We have seen some very creative Tiny Whoop gate set-ups. Everything from simple rings to full blown sequenced led courses. Send us your Whoop Gate creations to share with everyone~