Eachine Wizard X220 Complete guide
- Brand: Eachine
- Model: Wizard X220
- Size: 29x29x23.5mm
- Weight: 535 grams
- FC: F3 6DOF | Betaflight 2.9.1
- ESC: 20A BLHeli S | 2S-4S
- Motor: Brushless | 2205 | 2300kV
- Camera: 1/3 CMOS | 700 tvl | PAL
- Vtx: 200mw | 48 CH | TS5823S
- RX: None
- Battery: 4s 1500mAh 14.8v (recommended)
- Prop: 5040 | 3 blade
- Price: 125$
Download: User Manual here
Eachine Wizard X220
Alright so you’ve finally received your Eachine Wizard X220 in the mail and you are super excited about flying this thing. First let’s go over a few quick tips to get you in the air without any headaches. This guide contains some of the best possible upgrades that we have found for the Wizard X220 , a betaflight tuning guide to get you up and running in no time and last but not least a list of X220 replacement parts to make easy repairs if and when needed.
Prepare the Wizard for 1st flight
First things first, lets change the battery strap to the back plate. why? It allows you to strap the battery properly giving it a much more secure hold.
Setup Betaflight with the Wizard X220
Update. If you are using F3 flight controllers, and flashed to betaflight 3.0. ignore the following posts.
F3 Flight controller stock pids are good enough for flying. All that you need to do is change the RC Expo to 0.1 and the Strength for both horizon and stabilized mode to 20-30.
Betaflight is the newest GCS that eachine has decided to use. All Wizards come pre-flashed with betaflight.
The first thing you do after connecting the usb and letting windows install stillabs driver first.
Now you can connect to betaflight. (if you do not already have betaflight installed, in Google Chrome browser go to chromewebstore and download the betaflight app)
Below are my settings for betaflight. You can use also cleanflight if you have used before but for this guide we will stick to BF.
Calibrate accelerometer, be sure put your wizard on a level flat service to calibrate correctly.
Set your min throttle level to anything you like. I like to set mine to 1070 because I know my quad is armed and it does not hurt anyone at this setting.
Check your transmitter and get familiarized with the controls first. There is a preview of the quad at the right of the screen, try your controls and ensure everything works as expected.
(Optional) Setting an Arm Sequence and setting your Flight Modes.
I like to set my Arm to a channel, in this case its Aux 2. You can refer to your transmitter section in betaflight for this.
Since betaflights default flight mode is acro, I usually put the horizon (rattitude) followed by angle mode (stable).
FAILSAFE! Important, and you want to know the cool thing about betaflight? auto failsafe (it can be a pain or a life saver). You have the option to set 2 modes , drop or land. I choose land, and the min throttle that I use is 1120.
Now for the part we have been waiting for The Wizard X220 PIDS.
*edit ( kindly change the transition to 30 for rattitude)
alternatively just key these in and you are fine.
I have toned downed the rates to 0.5 for apprentices ( this is up to the flyer you can go 0.4 if you wish), and increased the rc expo to 0.7(increase to 0.8 is also fine) lower it and its twitchier.. try out first you can increase your rates after you mastered acro.
Before you fly on FPV and have changed some pids, FLY ON LOS first get the feel of your throttle management and your controls.
DO NOT CALIBRATE ALL ESCs motor at once. This is a Naze32 Rev6 there are some issues with multiple esc calibration.
Calibrate them one by one. you have to set i have read the notice slider to arm, select motor 1 and max it. then plug in your lipo battery packs.
Wizard X220 recommended upgrades
Right out of the box the Wizard is awesome, but what makes the X220 special is the ability to upgrade with you as your flight skills progress. Now available in an X220S version upgraded from the factory is one way to trick out your Wizard… but for those of us with a stock X220 there is still room for progress.
While the OG Wizard came with an F3, swapping this out for all the goodness of the F4 from the X220S isn’t that hard. Check it out with betaflight 3.0.3 that pretty much voids the above guide but who needs it at that point.
Motors for the X220
The stock 2205 brushless are cool and run 2-4s, but some 2206 that can handle up to 5S would be much cooler.
Honestly the stock camera is garbage and in only PAL. I suggest that you dump it asap and make this a priority upgrade to get the most out of your Wizard. Whether you spend some cash or go cheap there are some good options on the market now and below are a few tried and tested fpv cameras for a better view.
The stock Vtx is the other major bottleneck on the Wizard, the actual quality kinda sucks and if it hasn’t failed yet don’t bother with the stock one.
The cheapest upgrade that you will notice a difference from is the antennas, just mind your polarization and be sure to grab one for the fpv receiving end.
No matter what everyone needs good batteries and all Wizards perform better with more juice… that is a fact. Be it a 5 cell or nice quality lipo with high C rating to carry power all the way until the end you’ll be doing yourself a favor investing in a trusted brand name.
Whether you got the ARF without a transmitter or an RTF with the Flysky i6, a nice transmitter is one thing that pays off big time. You really don’t need to spend the big bucks here either to get on par with the pro’s, I mean you do have that option if you want, but the 100$ range has some legit offerings.
Wizard X220 Repairs & Replacement parts
If you break something, well I would like to congratulate you! This means you are having fun and getting faster. The speed it takes to break 4mm thick is very impressive, pat yourself on the back and get to replacing it.
Mods mods mods, everybody love mods. BUT modding the Wizard is so simple, it makes the eachine look like a truck.
Things needed. ARE YOU READY?
- 3m foam tape
- zip ties,
- electrical tape
- m3 hex screw driver.
- your fingers
remove the top plate and take out the side plates. this will shave some weight off the Wizard, as well as allowing air to cool your vtx even further
cut the zip tie off the right angle rp-sma connector. try to push the vtx further in. BEFORE Your battery strap. and attach like so. Use foam tape to stick the vtx onto the carbon fiber. and zip tie the RP-sma antenna down. as well as your VTX.
This way your antenna is not upright but facing back. when you are flying the tilt of the Wizard will make the antenna upright. this not only protects your antenna but gives you better reception as well! if you are flying away from your fpv goggles it will ensure the antenna is still seen, and if you are flying towards yourself your antenna can still be seen.
next put the FSia6b forward, and stick it with the 3m foam tape. like so.
I am not a fan of zip ties on escs. use electrical tape to tape down your escs. remove the foam landing pads first before attempting this.
most important change your fpv camera. the connector for the eachine fpv camera is different from the runcam swift versions. you will have to cut wires and attach to the fpv camera.
Thats it! go ahead and try this mod and feedback to me. all my quads uses this style and my chances of breaking antennas and vtx have lessen alot!